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Subject: Stagecraft Digest #277
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Stagecraft Digest, Issue #277

 1. Re: lamp Cord
    by "Paul Guncheon" <paul.guncheon [at] verizon.net>
 2. Re: Trap Fun
    by "Paul Guncheon" <paul.guncheon [at] verizon.net>
 3. Re: phase converters why?
    by MPTecDir [at] aol.com
 4. Re: Trap Fun
    by Paul Toben <paul.toben [at] tufts.edu>
 5. Rough Cut Lumber
    by Heather Jean Hillhouse-Deans <hjh2 [at] Lehigh.EDU>
 6. Re: Rough Cut Lumber
    by "Curt Mortimore" <cmortimo [at] graceland.edu>
 7. Re: Rough Cut Lumber
    by "Waxler, Steve (waxlers)" <WAXLERS [at] UCMAIL.UC.EDU>
 8. Re: Tree bark
    by "Josh Ratty" <josh.ratty [at] verizon.net>

*** Please update the subject line of your reply to use the subject
*** line of the message you are replying to! Please only reply to
*** one message subject in each reply.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message-ID: <003201c50613$faf8c5c0$0202a8c0 [at] MyLastPC>
From: "Paul Guncheon" <paul.guncheon [at] verizon.net>
References: <list-16546806 [at] prxy.net>
Subject: Re: lamp Cord
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 05:05:32 -1000

>Instead of 16/2 lamp cord I grabbed low voltage 2 conductor
>used for landscaping.  I will be powering 4- 25 watt lamps.
>I will be testing the units on the ground before they are
>installed. Does anyone see a problem (besides the stupidity)with
>these units (i.e. the higher voltage, amperage will vaporize the
>insulation within seconds).

Actually, I would be more worried that it would heat up, melt, and start a
fire 30 seconds longer that your test period.

Why would one even consider using something questionable for this
application?  Aren't there enough things to worry about than something so
easily solvable?

C'mon.

Go get the correct wire, i.e. the type one doesn't have to question.

Laters,

Paul

  "I'm wearing my wedding ring," said Tom with abandon


------------------------------

Message-ID: <003301c50615$7f5edb50$0202a8c0 [at] MyLastPC>
From: "Paul Guncheon" <paul.guncheon [at] verizon.net>
References: <list-16546806 [at] prxy.net>
Subject: Re: Trap Fun
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 05:16:23 -1000

<<We are doing The Foriegner in a month or so and I need to engineer the
disappearance near the end of the show (a character in a KKK robe drops into
the basement). >>

First show I did in Hawaii.  Extremely funny and one of the few shows I've
designed that I have watched more than once.

<<. I have toyed with a few things but at the moment I am considering
building a pneumatically driven scissor lift (I already own the pistons that
I should need). >>

Bear in mind that this is a controlled fall and that the device does not
have to lift anything.  I used a tracked box connected to two cables that
went to one cable that went to a hand winch.  Using pneumatics would also
work swell, using the cylinders essentially as brakes.


<<Because of other height restrictions, the director and scene
designer have settled on a 40 inch platform height.>>

Curious... the scene designer and director must have some technique in mind
to get the gag to work in such a short space.  Try ask them.  I assume you
have a "low" stage height... yes?

I had the resort "office'" floor, where I put the trap door to the basement,
at about 6 feet or so.

The entrance to the shed out back through a fireplace?  That's quite an
arcgtectural stretch but I guess whatever works.

Laters,

Paul

 "They are not answering - we'd better try the knocker," said Tom adoringly.

 "They are not answering - we'd better try the knocker," said Tom adoringly.


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 11:04:46 -0500
From: MPTecDir [at] aol.com
Cc: mptecdir [at] aol.com, mfpowers [at] theater.umass.edu
Subject: Re: Re: phase converters why?
Message-ID: <3BB103D1.243FCFE7.00740ECC [at] aol.com>

Greg Persinger <gregpersin [at] comcast.net> writes:

<<  ..... To me it is a box that does some voodoo that makes the three phase motors motors run off of a wall outlet.

I know someone out there has a commercially available product that does the same thing, I just can't remember who. >>

Greg, 

Grainger, McMaster-Carr, Greybar and any commercial electrical supply store
-- 
Michael

Michael Powers, Technical Director
U Mass Amherst, Dept of Theatre
112 Fine Arts Center West
151 Presidents Drive Ofc 2
Amherst, MA 01003-9331
 
Phone:  413-545-6821
Fax:    413-577-0025
http://www.umass.edu/theater/ 
mfpowers [at] theater.umass.edu
mptecdir [at] aol.com


------------------------------

In-Reply-To: <list-16546806 [at] prxy.net>
References: <list-16546806 [at] prxy.net>
Message-Id: <01eba0a061228c8d41c46422280a57cd [at] tufts.edu>
From: Paul Toben <paul.toben [at] tufts.edu>
Subject: Re: Trap Fun
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 17:16:08 -0500

The main thing to remember about scissor lifts is that the force that 
is required to raise them is not a linear function of height (unlike 
the simple hydraulic cylinder setup
in a lift).  The drive mechanism will have a much harder job of raising 
the platform during the first six inches than it will for the last six. 
  I don't know your specific show so this may or may not be an issue, 
but if the platform has to return to its "up" position, be sure that 
the pneumatic cylinder in your design will be strong enough to lift it.

The calculations are pretty simple so I would certainly suggest sitting 
down with a pencil and paper if your application requires it.

~Paul

On Jan 29, 2005, at 6:00 AM, Tom Hackman wrote:

>  I need to engineer the disappearance near the end of the show...


------------------------------

Message-ID: <2180086.1107049712431.JavaMail.hjh2 [at] lehigh.edu>
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 20:48:32 -0500 (EST)
From: Heather Jean Hillhouse-Deans <hjh2 [at] Lehigh.EDU>
Subject: Rough Cut Lumber

Hi All-
I've been given a design that includes rough cut lumber planking on a 
small rolling wagon with upright columns (short- tallest is 5'). I have 
a source for the rough cut, cut to order, delivered to my doorstep, but 
I'm concerned about mixing the green lumber with the ply and 2x4 I'm 
planning on using for the platform. I know the lumber will shrink as it 
dries, so I'm wondering if there are any suggestions about fastners or 
construction methods, or if I should rethink my framing and do the 
entire thing out of green wood so it might all shrink at the same rate. 
Thoughts?
Thanks!
Heather Hillhouse-Deans
Lehigh University
Zoellner Arts Center


------------------------------

Subject: RE: Rough Cut Lumber
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 20:40:48 -0600
Message-ID: <EA9B1801BA3A584887D7D4AB70DC30B003154C40 [at] athena.graceland.edu>
From: "Curt Mortimore" <cmortimo [at] graceland.edu>

Heather,

Your mileage will definitely vary.

Have you asked your supplier if they offer dried, rough cut wood?

My immediate reaction is to build your unit with an eye toward sturdy
and not worry a whole lot about the green wood intermingling with the
kiln dried wood. Given that the design calls for rough cut lumber I am
guessing there is some aesthetic tolerance for lumber that is not
perfectly straight.

In my experience, once wood has been assembled into something it remains
fairly stable. Things may change shape slightly and may require
adjustments but normally nothing radical.=20

My suggestion would be to design the unit with the intention of having
to make adjustments.=20

Gluing rough, green lumber can be done but may be difficult so using
bolts or screws might be better. Threaded fasteners could also
facilitate the adjustment process.

Generally, more fasteners is better. If you're bored, here is an
experiment. Take two 8' 1X4's and lay them face to face. Screw them
together with two screws, one 3" from one end the second 3" from the
other end. Now pick up the boards and I bet you can pull them apart so
you can look between them in the middle. Now, take some more screws and
put one every foot. Try to pull the boards apart again. More fasteners
makes a sturdier joint.
But I digress.

Put this unit fairly early in the construction schedule so adjustments
can be made and the piece has time to "settle in" before tech week.

Finally, I would suggest having the lumber delivered the day of, or, the
day before you plan on building the unit. Then press through and build
the unit as quickly as is reasonable rather than take a week or two. The
idea behind this is that the wood gets assembled before it dries and has
less of a chance to turn into a spaghetti knot.

I hope some, all, or none of that is useful.

Now for my question: Has your production team discussed splinters or
issues with snagging costumes?

Thanks

Curtis L. Mortimore

Graceland University

1 University Place

Lamoni, IA 50140

(641) 784-5265

-----Original Message-----
From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft [at] theatrical.net] On Behalf Of Heather
Jean Hillhouse-Deans
Sent: Saturday, January 29, 2005 7:49 PM
To: Stagecraft
Subject: Rough Cut Lumber

For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
---------------------------------------------------

Hi All-
I've been given a design that includes rough cut lumber planking on a=20
small rolling wagon with upright columns (short- tallest is 5'). I have=20
a source for the rough cut, cut to order, delivered to my doorstep, but=20
I'm concerned about mixing the green lumber with the ply and 2x4 I'm=20
planning on using for the platform. I know the lumber will shrink as it=20
dries, so I'm wondering if there are any suggestions about fastners or=20
construction methods, or if I should rethink my framing and do the=20
entire thing out of green wood so it might all shrink at the same rate.=20
Thoughts?
Thanks!
Heather Hillhouse-Deans
Lehigh University
Zoellner Arts Center


------------------------------

Message-ID: <AE85829C9F38D040A4B63DFBE5A042EA44CCE5 [at] ucmail6.ad.uc.edu>
From: "Waxler, Steve (waxlers)" <WAXLERS [at] UCMAIL.UC.EDU>
Subject: RE: Rough Cut Lumber
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 22:09:44 -0500

I pretty much second most of what Curtis said (Hi Curtis!) Don't worry so
much about the movement.  If you were doing cabinetry or furniture I would
be more concerned.

Steve Waxler
 
Technical Director
College Conservatory of Music
University of Cincinnati
  (513) 556-3709

-----Original Message-----
From: Curt Mortimore [mailto:cmortimo [at] graceland.edu] 
Sent: Saturday, January 29, 2005 9:41 PM
To: Stagecraft
Subject: Re: Rough Cut Lumber

For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
---------------------------------------------------

Heather,

Your mileage will definitely vary.

Have you asked your supplier if they offer dried, rough cut wood?

My immediate reaction is to build your unit with an eye toward sturdy
and not worry a whole lot about the green wood intermingling with the
kiln dried wood. Given that the design calls for rough cut lumber I am
guessing there is some aesthetic tolerance for lumber that is not
perfectly straight.

In my experience, once wood has been assembled into something it remains
fairly stable. Things may change shape slightly and may require
adjustments but normally nothing radical. 

My suggestion would be to design the unit with the intention of having
to make adjustments. 

Gluing rough, green lumber can be done but may be difficult so using
bolts or screws might be better. Threaded fasteners could also
facilitate the adjustment process.

Generally, more fasteners is better. If you're bored, here is an
experiment. Take two 8' 1X4's and lay them face to face. Screw them
together with two screws, one 3" from one end the second 3" from the
other end. Now pick up the boards and I bet you can pull them apart so
you can look between them in the middle. Now, take some more screws and
put one every foot. Try to pull the boards apart again. More fasteners
makes a sturdier joint.
But I digress.

Put this unit fairly early in the construction schedule so adjustments
can be made and the piece has time to "settle in" before tech week.

Finally, I would suggest having the lumber delivered the day of, or, the
day before you plan on building the unit. Then press through and build
the unit as quickly as is reasonable rather than take a week or two. The
idea behind this is that the wood gets assembled before it dries and has
rts Center

------------------------------

Message-ID: <000101c5068d$5e661170$1c013b0a [at] Rattys>
From: "Josh Ratty" <josh.ratty [at] verizon.net>
References: <list-15962975 [at] prxy.net>
Subject: Re: Tree bark
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 14:39:57 -0500

Having done a few trees before, burlap or a rough canvas work well for
texture as does old hemp rope if twisted apart and used near the base as
roots and what not. Best of luck

Josh Ratty
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sherman, Roger" <Roger.Sherman [at] unco.edu>
To: "Stagecraft" <stagecraft [at] theatrical.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2005 7:04 PM
Subject: Tree bark


For info, archives & UNSUBSCRIBE, see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/>
---------------------------------------------------

What suggestions might anybody have for creating realistic tree bark?
Designer's concept is the sort of hobbit universe type trees from the art of
James Christensen. This tree is for Merry Wives - the opera and will be
about 4" diameter and 18' tall with long gnarly roots spreading out over the
stage. It must be practical in that Falstaff gets stuck about halfway up in
a large hole in the trunk.

Current thinking has a plywood base for the roots, wooden armatures, steel
frame for the large trunk, chickenwire over everthing, muslin over that and
then layers of cut industrial felt which will be gooped and painted. But we
are very open to other ideas! I'm sure we have all tried to make a tree at
one time (as we are all gods!), so I and my students would like a lot of
things to experiment with. Help!

Roger Sherman
TD UNC/LTR


------------------------------

End of Stagecraft Digest #277
*****************************